Dirt: Adventures, with Family, in the Kitchens of Lyon, Looking for the Origins of French Cooking by Bill Buford

Dirt: Adventures, with Family, in the Kitchens of Lyon, Looking for the Origins of French Cooking by Bill Buford
My rating: 3 of 5 stars


Jacket Blurb: Bill Buford turns his inimitable attention from Italian cuisine to the food of France. Baffled by the language, but convinced that he can master the art of French cooking--or at least get to the bottom of why it is so revered-- he begins what becomes a five-year odyssey by shadowing the esteemed French chef Michel Richard, in Washington, D.C. But when Buford (quickly) realizes that a stage in France is necessary, he goes--this time with his wife and three-year-old twin sons in tow--to Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France. Studying at L'Institut Bocuse, cooking at the storied, Michelin-starred La Mère Brazier, enduring the endless hours and exacting rigeur of the kitchen, Buford becomes a man obsessed--with proving himself on the line, proving that he is worthy of the gastronomic secrets he's learning, proving that French cooking actually derives from (mon dieu!) the Italian.

I greatly enjoy foodie books. These glimpses into a world that so many take for granted - we go out to eat, we sit at a table, food appears, we eat, pay and leave. I like knowing the behind the scenes - what kind of personality does it take to want to become a chef, a line cook, someone who finds some kind of satisfaction with working in an industrial kitchen. Where does my food come from? Who's making/growing/raising the cheese, the meat, the veggies, the the flour, the bread, etc? All the varied cultures and how do they approach food preparation and sitting down to eat.

I read Heat years ago and recall enjoying it, so when I saw Bill Buford had published another book, I immediately put it on hold at the library.

I enjoyed this quite a bit, but had a few quibbles too.

I enjoyed the history aspect: the question, the quest to answer where did French Cooking come from? I enjoyed the family aspect, Mr Buford's wife must be part saint, part goddess. I would love to read a book from her viewpoint on living in Italy and moving twin boys to France and back to the States, and her expertise and experience in the wine industry. I enjoyed reading about the people in Lyon and France. And, always of interest, working in Michelin star kitchens. It is a food culture both fascinating and in many ways, repugnant. Honestly, "because it's tradition" doesn't make a wrong, right. "It's tradition" just means someone doesn't have the nads to change the status quo.

My issues - all. the. names. Honestly, after a while I just couldn't keep straight which chef was which and from where and what restaurants they opened or closed. Other reviews have mentioned the name dropping would be more applicable or relative to upper level chefs. Maybe, maybe not, I just found them confusing.

Tying in with all the names, I lost interest in visiting all the restaurants. Same as the names - I couldn't keep who/what/where straight after a while.

And I found this to be about one chapter too long. I quite liked the bread-flour connection, and the importance of the role bread has in French culinary affairs. I would have preferred less restaurants and chefs and more artisinal connection. But that's my opinion.

Overall, I was kept mostly engaged, I learned quite a few things, and would recommended this book if you enjoy a foodie/history/autobiography type read.


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